I started looking for another trail to ride on Memorial day in January and I decided on the Cowboy Trail. It's listed as 189 miles from Valentine Nebraska to Norfolk, NE. We drove up on the Friday before the 3 day weekend. By Tuesday we had 206 new miles on our bikes and many adventures to talk about.
We started the cowboy trail in Valentine Nebraska, while the trail actually loses elevation as you travel east toward the end in Norfolk, you have to climb out of Valentine. We found the trail quite sandy and as we traveled toward Wood River where we would have lunch. Often the sand was soft and deep enough that our bike’s back ends would slide out behind us in the sand. It quickly became a lesson on how to ride in sand. One lesson that not everyone was ready to try and learn.
Our lunch in Wood River at Ma’s café was a much needed rest and refuel. The lady who ran Ma’s was very accommodating and made sure to fill our water bottles before we left. The food was good, the portions large and like many small town diners, the locals wanted to talk with each other and anyone else who was in the diner.
After lunch the ride continued another 20 miles. Now flatter but still with areas of deep sand that strained the legs and your will to keep going. Finally we arrived in Ainsworth. As is our tradition we stopped first at a bar, the Silver Circle. There we celebrated our first day before riding to the hotel. At the hotel we soaked in the pool and went to dinner.
Our second day would take us from Ainsworth to Stuart Nebraska. Lunch was planned to be in Bassett. The day was nice but we had a headwind today. The trail had basically a downward slope but we still found parts of the trail where the gravel or sand was loose and the riding was a bit dicey. We found another long and beautiful trestle we traveled over near Long Pine, NE. That's also where we found our first detour for a missing bridge. The detour on a rural highway with a large shoulder was welcome as the riding was much easier than the trail.
Sunday we would learn a bit more about Nebraska on Sundays and Memorial Day weekend. Our choice for lunch in Bassett was closed, as was the other restaurant. Luckily the hotel there had new owners and they had decided they would have a buffet every other Sunday to see if it was worthwhile. Lunch was brunch and we all had our fill and fueled up for the ride to Stuart.
In Stuart we stayed at a B & B that was once a convent. The “Sister’s House” was run by Doris and she could not have been more accommodating. When I made the reservations Doris pointed out it was Sunday and the market and the one restaurant and bar in town would be closed. She informed me the market would deliver our food as long as we ordered it about a week out. I called and spoke with the lady at the market who knew Doris and our food was waiting when we arrived.
I had ordered steaks, potatoes, salad and a blueberry pie. They were all awaiting us in the fridge when we arrived. A quick ride to the convenience store got us beer and wine for our diner. The house had a large dining room and we were all able to share our big meal at one table. Games and pie followed and then we all retired to bed. In the morning we had a big breakfast we shared and then we got back onto the trail.
Monday was of course Memorial Day. The plan, travel to the tiny Hamlet of Ewing by way of O’Niell where we would have lunch. Today we had a big wind, gratefully it was mostly from behind and gave us a nice push as we rode. In the town of O’Neill, once again our expected lunch spots were closed for the holiday. The local Mexican restaurant was open and we had a very nice lunch. The wind continued to push us to Ewing and we arrived in the mid afternoon.
However, In Ewing, the one and only restaurant and Bar, BW’s, was closed for the holiday. Nothing was on their Facebook page (Small town restaurants rarely have websites, just Facebook pages) but the doors were locked tight. We rode onto our hotel, the Twin Rivers Motel. Small, it had about 7 rooms. The owner and her daughter ran the place. It was clean and she was gracious enough to give us her garage door opener so we could store our bikes in the garage. But first we had to find some food.
Our only option for food that night was the convenience store. So bagged or microwaveable sandwiches were our choice and some beer from the store. When we returned to the motel we found tables and chairs in the garage. Our hearty group made the best of things and we had a picnic dinner on the side lawn of the motel. After dinner we retired to our room and squeezed all 8 of us into the tiny room to play a few games before bed.
Tuesday was our last day on the trail. There was nowhere in Ewing to eat breakfast other than the convenience store so we passed on that and rode on. We hoped for breakfast in Clearwater, NE, about 10 miles down the trail but the cafe had gone out of business. We pressed on to to Neligh where we found a coffee shop with baked goods. Lunch came quickly as we stopped at the Branding Iron in Tiden, NE. Then the final press onto Norfolk.
We got to Norfolk in the late afternoon. We rode to the very beginning of the trail which added a couple of miles onto the trip, but you can’t go that far without seeing the start, or in our case the finish. It was a couple of miles to the hotel and we checked in, and soaked in the pool and hot tub. The best rated restaurant in Norfolk was in our hotel, so no bike rides to dinner, we ate at the hotel. After 4 days of riding, we all turned in early.
At about 7:30 am our shuttle back to Valentine showed up and Tony the driver started the process of stacking our bikes in the van like a jigsaw puzzle. With some help from us for padding and towels, together we got all our equipment into the van and we pulled out of the hotel at about 8 am for the three hour drive back to Valentine. Once in Valentine we loaded up our vehicles and stopped for lunch before we all departed.
As bike trails go, the Cowboy Trail is still in many ways in its infancy. It’s about to be the longest rails to trails bike trail in the country with the finish of the Rock Island spur that will go further west from Valentine. But as far as its adoption by the locals, many of them don’t really see it as a source of increased commerce in their communities. The hotel owner in Bassett told us when he realized he was the only place for bikes to have lunch on Sundays, he started being open every other Sunday to test out if he would get more business and he was shocked at how much more he got. That sentiment was prevalent all along the trail. We were more of a novelty to the small towns we traveled through than a sought after income stream. Kristie’s brother who met us in Norfolk summed up the local sentiment the best when he told his sister “don’t tell anyone how you got to Norfolk, they’ll think you’re crazy.”
Regardless of what the locals thought of us, the trip itself was a test for each of us in different ways. It’s in those tests where you realize if you picked your crew correctly. Our crew was amazing. From the planned wonderful dinner at the Sister's House, to making a fun picnic out of the unexpected convenience store dinner in Ewing, you look back and can only imagine how miserable you could have been if less adventurous people had come along. But our crew was there for the fun, the unexpected and the adventure. As Kristie said, it’s the unexpected things that make the best stories, and our trip gave us many of those.